1. center all the bows
2. cut a hole in the listing to allow the bows to protrude
3. Put it in the car and work the seams first, trim back the listing side to side until seams are tight.
4. Pull front to back then into the corners.

I can do most 60's cars in 3 to 4 hours. A 53 Chevy with 8 bows took me two days. Making patterns...sailpanels...insulation...not to mention sunvisors, all take extra time. Hope this helps.

https://relicate.com/#!

I've used this before, marine covering with a soft backing. Several colors. https://www.trivantage.com/aqualon-edge-soft-fabric-marine-charcoal-grey-60-in-style-5918es-774610-item

I have Servos on both my machines, never going back. I am now planning to rig one to my drill press.

Thanks to all for your input. This is what I really appreciate about this forum. For those that do go mobile, what works best for you; an additional service charge or an increase in an hourly rate?

I do agree Fred, it is nice to not tie up my shop, and it is nice to get out once in awhile. The hard part is not being able to anticipate everything I will need and having to make more than one trip to complete the job. Mileage fee? Years ago when I was trying to support my family with this trade I was doing full enclosures on large boats in the water. I found it near impossible to estimate time on those jobs.

You are right Andy, I was not happy coming home with $300 bucks and a stiff neck. I definitely under bid this job. It was one of those jobs that required more time than I anticipated and I wasn't going to cut corners to save my profit. It's not hard to find customers who want Concourse work at Walmart prices.
My boss (the wife) tells me that if I'm not making $40 an hour that I should stay home and work for her. I'll keep trying :smile:

I always enjoy your tutorials Cesar. I usually watch while my wife is reading. I can turn the sound off. :smile:

I put a toggle switch on an electric clock to track time on individual projects... learning as I go. This seat: repaired frames; carved foam; patterned and completed took 33 hours. The front seat took 40. I show customers the patterns and photos of the process. People just don't realize the time involved in this work.

"It really pulls the room together"

Hey Cody, I just posted a pic of a seat I just finished on the "show off" thread. I am fortunate to have a good foam supplier close to me so that I can go in and feel density. I usually start with ultra high density on springs and high to medium on platforms. On this seat I patterned to the carved foam and then cover it with headlining foam before I pulled the cover on. Headlining foam softens the edges and helps the cover slide. Hope this helps

1965 Impala back seat, the front got away before I could snap a picture

Thanks for everyone's input. I really appreciate the opportunity to field these gnawing questions that come up from time to time. :smile:

Sew your welt to the panel, then attach your boxing and run the stitches a smidge closer to the welt especially on the corner. Also, use shorter stitches. Hope this helps. :up:

fuzzy vinyl top material, auto leather that won't bleed through, or this https://www.sailrite.com/Softouch-Birch-60-Fabric I have used this on hardware, windscreens and where fabrics can rub on gel-coat.

I have been using lacquer for thinning and Naphtha for clean-up for years. "A little dab will do ya", if you're old enough to remember that phrase. :cool:

Always learning, Thanks

I delivered the seat last night. It is the third row seat out of a 1998 Chevy Astro van. It fits nicely in the 55 chevy pickup.

Thanks Dan

Cody, I think you are talking about reshaping the wheel ? I restored my own boat several years ago and got comfortable using West Systems Epoxy products. It's a bit of investment but it has a good shelf life and it will adhere to many substrates. With some practice you can make very light and strong parts. I reshaped the transom on my boat using styrofoam covered with a glued on trash bag. FYI, my experience with wrapping steering wheels in vinyl is to cut across the roll to the inside diameter.

I bought one last spring and used it all summer; very nice machine. Also, I very quickly swapped in a servo motor on my old Juki 563; well worth the money.

No luck @ GK. I think I found a supplier that will ship 50 pieces from China. Nobody makes shoes in the states anymore. I will let you all know.

Thanks for the warm welcome. I am not sure where the seat came from. I will check with the shop doing the build (Art Morrison chassis, Wilwood brakes, the whole nine yards). I did delete the cup holders from the center fold down.

Here is a link. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jZT6ViLV3_4
He notes the materials he is using @ 35 seconds in. The materials referenced are "Celtec" made in Mexico, and " Bartoli" made in Italy. I can't find this stuff through web searches. I even went to my local shoe repair guy and he looked at me like I had two heads. :joke:

My first post. This is a van seat going in a 1955 Chevy pickup. I used Hydes leather; 72 hours. The owner is a paraplegic and wanted many arm rest options.