Nice!

Some days I would wear a dress if that is what it took!

@Lindbert Guerra I haven't had a chance to use any of the methods in the post above. Let us know what you use and the results.

Thanks!

I second @Nadeem Muaddi get a hold of @Mal Maher

Thanks Fred

Thanks all!

That is great, I loved the first one.

Thats awesome! Wish I would have made it.

@Andy Laird so I have been using china markers. My problem when I have white material backing or white sew foam I use black, red or yellow china markers. It ends up staining my white thread, I end up with yellow or pink thread from my marks. How do you avoid that?

Thanks Kurt, thats what I am wondering is if the sew foam makes a difference.

Cody, I have the book its full of good stuff and Fred is a wealth of knowledge

Pretty much just seats, definitely not flooring but similar for panels. I do not use this for captains chairs either. For me its figured on removing hardware, staples, old vinyl, steaming foam, patterning, sewing and getting it back on with new scrim and hidem if it had it. So panels wouldn't be the same but its a place to start. Just like captains chairs are more work I adjust if there is more work for french seams or what not. I measure the piece, length and width not the material yardage.
I needed a way when I started keeping my pricing consistent. This is what I came up with and just adjust from there. It does not include removing pieces more cash and carry.

It does work pretty well for me John. I had trouble when I first started coming up with a consistent way of pricing. I adjust the square inch price depending on the amount of stitching, the more elaborate or detailed the higher the cost. It also helps to know what the bottom line is or the no way point. Customer will want to haggle or get a deal so I known where the point is that its hard to make any money.

Very Cool!

Hey Cody, the bike owner is supposed come by when the weather permits to get a few in front of the shop. I will try and post some then.

We do a lot of marine work and use what Peter mentioned above a lot. I also have figured for my area that 30-40 cents a square inch depending on patterns is where I need to be. This of course can vary by your local market.

Heritage seat I finished up

awesome thanks Bob

Thanks Steve, I do the same but am getting a lot of motorcycle seat work and old fire trucks with no tops. They all want some exposed stitching and I can only find thicker contrast threads in Nylon.

I am sure someone will have more experience than I but here is my two cents. I understood the two tension knobs to aid in thicker threads. If you need a lot of tension and only have one point you have to really tighten it down like pinching the thread. This can damage the thread, so having two allows you to get more tension with less stress on the thread.

Most any supplier will have them. A bonded polyester that is UV protected is common or you can go all out and us a lifetime thread like Tenara or Profilen. A lot depends on salt or freshwater use and what your customer's expectations are.

I am a one person owner/operator also. I use my website as a portfolio basically. People some times want to see similar work ive done on some projects.

I do a lot in making covers. I find that using pony clamps, which come in many sizes now can work. You can also use the larger office paper clips, the black ones that you squeeze to open. I have also used a stapler, and staple in the salvage area. These tricks all work pretty good to get your darts planned out so you can mark them.

I am sure there is a specific use material. I do a lot of marine upholstery and have a lot of odd sized vinyl remnants. I do 25-30 boat covers a year and use the scraps mentioned, they work great. They don't bleed and so far seem to wear well.