I use Crest East Coast black insta-bond with accelerator spray on the heel pad edge. Glue the pad down with trim cement and insta-bond the edges.

I'd suggest to staple temporary webbing straps to the rear bow. Adjust the height by measuring window curtain and use the split in top at rear bow and measure down to belt line.

I installed a roof on a customer's restoration project Cadillac who was extremely satisfied. He was VERY difficult through the whole process and I decided if and when he came back to have his seats done I would refuse the job. Close to a year later he did, I refused the job, he was "Shocked". Ended up taking me to small claims court ! Said the roof ,that previously met his standards ,wasn't to his standards

Giving employees an incentive bonus works well by showing an added appreciation of their hard work. Be careful and check with your accountant of creating a sub-contractor base employee if your company is hourly base pay. I know a guy who did that with his current hourly based employees and 1099 them when they did renovations on his building. He received tremendous fines. .

There are many wood components from header bow, rear bow, base line and 1/4 wood that may need replacement. Also, the rear window frame distorts and doesn't allow the rear window to seat in position( I always purchase a replacement frame with wood tack band and new rubber ) Check out M&T Manufacturing, they are very helpful. I usually figure labor for top,pads,cables and headliner at 20 hours. Wood replacement labor additional.

It's known to me as color key molding. That was most popular mid 70's thru the 80's. Later street rodders would use it to trim their vinyl tops. We used to use a ton of that back in the day. Try Albright's Supply or Three Rivers Supply. Maybe they can help.

Collecting what's due to you from an erratic paying client can be challenging. They obviously know that you need to get paid however, currently they can't or don't want to. It's good that you see things from their perspective. Something to consider is that you are offering them interest free financing on their projects. Use that to your advantage on collections.You may also consider offering them a discount to pay their balance in full. That's worked for me in the past. Keep in mind if you make changes to the financing arrangements you may loose the client or have them split the projects between you and other vendors ( they may feel it's easier to owe two people $5000 each than one at $10000)

Hi Anthony, Here’s an example.

I've dealt with them for years and have had no problems. Most recently I received 5 yards of 59 Eldo vinyl that matched perfectly and arrived timely. A few years back Doug purchased my older stock and that transaction also went well. One of my customers had a problem with a custom dyed leather but the problem was resolved quickly by them.

@Tom RichardsonReal nice and clean look

That's a great idea with the horses. I use a wedged foam block . Let's us adjust to different heights and add foam to it as needed. I don't have to worry about damage when it falls which unfortunately was learned the hard way!

Hey Jim, Glad to help and it's always good to manage the cash flow!

I usually figure 10 ft per door on sedans

I will only install customer supplied tops that we are familiar with. I charge my shop labor rate times the book hours according to the brands labor guide and adjust as I see fit. You can also make a convertible top installation labor rate at your shop for this service. As far as warranties I tell the customer that my labor is a year but anything with the top failing will be subject to my labor charges and they have to make all contacts with their supplier.

@Cody LunningYou're welcome. Glad to help!

This is from the 75 DeLeo book. The insert seems to resemble 5E35 from an Olds.

This is from the 76 DeLeo book.

Just a thought to save the customer on cost of new foam is to repair/rebuild the existing. Glue burlap onto the frame and thick jute onto the bottom of the existing foam. Glue foam in damaged areas of the existing and grind to shape. Make up your covers with 1/2' foam sewn into it and this should provide great results.

If I remember correctly, that 4" area at the 1/4 does not attach to the belt but drops down into the 1/4 and gets a flat plate screwed onto it to hold it against the inner well panel. If there's a sewn flap that piece covers(drapes over) the screwed on flat plate. This drop in section at the 1/4 is needed so the top can be folded down.

Yes, Mopars through these years had a unique installation method. Gluing the 1/4 flap in place first will put the top in the correct position. By pulling the top rearward over the rear bow and fitting to the belt line, it will allow the roof to fit without a concern that the bow will move out of position. Using steam will help in the installation

Once the curtain is in place with a proper bow height , I suggest to glue the 1/4 top flap around the 1/4 frame . This will allow you to have the top positioned in a way so as to line up the top toward the belt line. Always check that the roof is centered as you are fitting. Also, I do have to say you have a good last name.

You're welcome Cody. Another thought I forgot to mention, as seen in the pic, is to mark with a sharpie and leave the line after cutting. It gives two straight lines that after gluing you can follow to easily pinch the foam together.

You can also try cutting out and removing an 1.25 x 1.25 square. Then glue the two remaining edges together. I find on a long length it gives an even curved shape.

Pretty straight forward install. I remember it was a bit tight on the 1/4 area to wrap the flap around. Never had to change weatherstriping always reused the original.

Yes, back in the day I did many however, it's been a while