I know what your saying mate, I’ve know idea what jag do these days but I do a lot of Ferrari’s/Maserati fairly well.

the Maserati, aston headliners is due to foam failure in my opinion as the foam goes to mush.

Ferrari use a soft open cell foam to bond their leather to and imo isn’t up to the job hence the failures.

The glue 9/10 times isn’t the problem

Chris, we have dedicated heat activated glues for interiors in both single or 2 part from a number of manufacturers in the uk/Europe which are far superior

Are the feet walking high enough?

What it is your after I might be able to help?

Have used them forever and have always been 100%, they had a member of staff pass away (maybe a year ago) and since then they've never been the same, shame really as they where always my first port of call but getting hold of them or delivery times have really slipped

Your never resolve this without doing it again I feel, are your using a heat activated glue that goes fully off? If you are you can glue up the leather with a spreader before stitching together (I do), I guess brushing the glue on the substraight was more the problem?

sounds like you would be better off with a water based heat activated glue

Machine the cover up with spacer fabric and perforated leather

Vegan leather….I’m intrigued?

Not sure If your playing hard to get or giving up the goods on the first date!

Personally I think your asking a bit to much from the leather tbh but if I was to do it, rather than rolling the leather up to that point I would of heated it through and then worked it in.(easy to say)

Your best bet is to heat either via a heat gun or a heated up metal smoother or iron and massage it.

I would google close cell foam, find a manufacturer/supplier and ask for a sample card, there’s loads of variants

The heater pads double up as the filler, your need to unpick it all and sew it back in.

i'd say the red stitch is done first by cnc on bare leather and the black done with the foam, a cnc machine won't deal with that much foam due to shrinkage.

This.... I have piping feet from 4-8mm, even if you use a foot that's 1mm smaller than it should be it won't pull it up any tighter then the correct foot.

due to the way the work goes through the machine with the material being flat and the walking foot over the top it will never be 100% tight but if you flip the work and sew again your get 1-2mm out of it and it will be as tight as possible

Did you pre make the piping with glue?

To be honest i don't know this is how it arrived. The old hood has bolt holes where the extensions are so i assume they're missing and whoever took them off has them!. i assume by floating tack rail there's a loop in the bottom of the hood which slides up and down the bar to relive tension?

Could you advise where these missing parts could be purchased?

thank you

Thanks for the reply, yes i understand your 1/2 inch method thanks for the tip!

Hi fred thanks for getting back to me, being from the uk the impala is all new to me, the hood set up is familiar but I'm pretty sure its missing parts!
Are you saying the sides of that one was on a slide bar and a loop in the rear window piece so it can slide up and down? i have no bars or loop in the new window piece if that's the case.

All i have is that rear horse shoe bar which stops say 5 inches after the curve of the body and then nothing to the B pillar/hinge, in the body there's maybe 4 bolt holes that go along and taper down following the body shape so i assume there should be some hockey shaped bars?

i was told a chemical called tdi is running out hence the increase

Edge skive the end so the turn is flush and thin the top to wafer thin so it turns over the rubber with out points. or cone of the rubber and loose it.

Hartley Whitney! Do I win a prize for the closest?

i think it will be a job you wish you never got involved in but good luck!

What glue are you using? And why type of material are you sticking?