Thanks @Robert Webb I’ll give that a try.

@Tom Richardsonlooks awesome!

Could you get grey leather and leather dye and do exactly that. Made your own?

Thanks Fred I’ll check them out!

So my title worked well then lol! I agree with a marine vinyl and suggested it to the client. I think I will try to convince him to go this route vs leather. Cheaper to replace if need be in the long run.

When doing the diamond stitches. Would you still use regular sew foam or use an outdoor foam and add a backer to it?

@Eric Gordonthank you! It does look very similar and he’s alright with close. I appreciate this.

@Jim Bentley thank you. Close is all the customer is asking for. I will look into those 2 fabrics.

@Adam Gabriel I tried the vin break down from what I could find online. It was t much help.

Here are some pics. One shows both the smooth and square pattern material. The other just the smooth material. I feel like #6211 from a 79 Mercury looks close going off the small pic on SMS

@"Kris Vowell the thin price of carpet or felt is on the bottom to stop the rivers from scratching the paint. It’s also there to hide the folded over and riveted material that may not be so pleasant in the eyes

Dang. I was afraid of this. I think all but this vin tag was removed when painted. We check the glove box also. I’ll have to see if I can go som searching around to find close material. Thanks everyone

Depends on how thick the fiberglass is. I have seen people use rivets, also seen just glued down on the underside. For custom seats I’ve seen metal bands used to that are about and inch wide and the same shape at the seat pan. The material is them sandwiched between the pan and this metal
Band and then solid riveted.

That’s awesome!

Okay getting back to this seat. Here you can see in the pics the mechanics wire holding a few springs together and to the frame. Then in the other picture, it shows the only spring that appears to be sagging. There is also a support rod that looks to be bent. They’re both about 4th line of springs in. I’ve sat in it a few times and both sides seem equal to me. What are my options, again I’ve never done this before so use layman’s terms when it comes to explaining. But also, i feel this is just how a 50’s seat is, and it won’t feel like a new modern stiffer away cause it isn’t. Am I in the wrong for thinking that?

@Eric Gordon I wouldn’t have thought of that in a million years. I would have gone with the first route. Thanks for the share

@Gareth Judd thanks I was following but now I know for sure

@Gareth Judd sorry for being an idiot, but I’m much more of a visual learner. I read what you wrote, but not sure I follow it. Have any in process pictures?

@Adam Tuhkala I had issues with this on one seat I worked on too. Luckily I could change the idea as the customer told me to just do whatever I wanted lol. But I’d like to see what fixes it.

For future reference. Always sew the welting to the flat piece. If you sew to pleats the welt will will have the same hills and valleys of the pleats.

Will this get stretched out once the seat if fully sewn and put on?

Thanks both of you. I’ll get the cover torn off and see what is all there. Just looking from the bottom side up. The springs look worn. I’ll try and post some pics later on.

I don’t on the seats I do. Only time I do, is when a design is sewn into the cover and needs it.

Looks great. ESP like the headliner

Nice idea! Thanks for sharing

@Amelia Brooker


Sorry the pics are crappy but it’s my dungeon of a basement with little light. One is it just sitting there with there. The other is the plywood bottoms looking from the bottom up. These have yet to be done and as far as I can tell, are original.

I’ve done a few international scouts before and from the factory they are just plywould and foam for the benches. I can try and remember to get a pic of a bench I have now for one