An aluminum ruler can easily be narrowed with a fine toothed carbide saw blade on a tablesaw. Just be careful and go slow with the ruler held down with feather board clamped to the fence. A few strokes with a file and it's whatever width you want. I've split several aluminum strips the way. Just be careful and have the ruler under control all the time.

You may want to check with Coast to Coast leather and vinyl. They can perforate leather or vinyl and have a large inventory of vinyl. If you send them a sample they will match it up, send you a sample and if you like they will perforate it for you. There maybe others that can do it also, I've just had good luck with coast to Coast

Thanks for all the info...what company has the better kits? I saw someplace about a special sew foam that is ventilated for this purpose, have you used it or just stay with punching holes?

I finally found the right parts. This machine is a Consew made in Japan, but was made by Seiko.
I tried a lot of suppliers including the one I bought the machine from, but most weren't very helpful or didn't know there is a difference with some 339rb machines. I finally found the right part at Bobbin USA. Joe there was very helpful and had the part in stock.The price was good with fast and free shipping.

Thanks for the references ....I'll try them...Thanks again

your not old...I'm pushing 74 and work every day on cars and some boats. I do work a lot slower now, but it keeps me off the streets doing something I enjoy, (most of the time anyway)

A long arm would always be nice. I have a long arm single needle machine, but a double would be nice sometimes. I guess it's what you want to invest for very limited use. Myself, I can't justify another long arm.

I bought a Consew 339RB-1 several years ago. I am like you, a one man shop. I have seconded guessed the investment when it's not used but then when I need it, I'm glad to have it. I bought a rebuilt from Keystone . They do wonderful work as the machine is like new.

Kevin Balser...where are you located? Just wondering

Thanks for all the help. I tried cutting holes in some scrap foam and didn't like the outcome as I didn't notice much difference plus I felt like I was compromising the foam quality. I ended up taking the seat apart, and as it was laminated to begin with I took out some of the firmer foam and replaced it with a less dense foam. Also I did as Adam Gabriel mentioned, cut out the base under each side and replaced with webbing. All this was on his nickel as he had ok 'ed the original seat. He was happy and was alright with the extra cost. All is well that ends well....again thanks for all your input.

Let us know what you find to be the problem, may help us all sometime

Have you tried Coast to Coast leather? I've had good luck with them matching leather and can perforate any you want.

Looks good, if you were closer I'd send you some more.

I'm no expert on machine repair, but I would look at the feed dogs ( toothed pieces under presser feet) or the presser feet not having the right pressure. The feed dogs may be worn out or not adjusted right. It sounds like the material isn't feeding at the same rate therefore different stitch length. I'm sure someone on here has the same machine and could give you better first hand info.

Try Bill Hirsch Automotive They have the square weave carpet, but I'm sure on the price

Try Ebay?

I just bought some wool broadcloth from Bill Hirsch. The wool was nice and good people to work with. They carry other products also.

I've heard that SMS took over all of LB stock, but I'm not sure that is correct.I hope not!

I never give estimates over the phone or without looking at the project. The "ballpark" estimate that everyone seems to want is what they cast in stone, unless you do it for less of course. I just tell them that due too so many variables, I just can't do it...most understand. A unhappy customer will go out if their way to badmouth you and skew the facts. It's too bad that a good shop can be hurt because of some misunderstanding.

I buy listing with and without a cord depending on the application. I use the corded listing or fill in the un-corded with paper wrapped wire or sometimes bare wire. I like the wire for seats to be stiff so that it pulls evenly and don't bend at the hog rings.. I do make my own listing from denim if the other don't work. So many ways of doing the same thing.

I never close for cleaning and maintenance, but my shop shows it. It is a great idea which I think I will try in the near future. Thanks for the idea.

You can lay it out with all 4 being french, but the back of the boot will have a normal flat seam down the middle between the two french seams....sew all the french seams and top ring first, then with it inside out sew the normal flat seam. don't forget the seam allowance for the back seam. Hope that helps

I don't think offering them a discount to pay in full is too good of an idea unless you don't intend on working for them again. A discount only gives them the idea that if they don't pay, you will lower the price. The discount should be addressed prior to contracting the work. ie. 3% if paid upon delivery. You can add that 3% when quoting the job so you are out nothing there. Some places like to operate on your money, and if they are that close to going belly up, you may want to give the discount, get your money, and cut the cord before they take you with them. Just a thought.

If I remember right, the feed dogs are adjustable up and down, you may want to raise the dogs just a little.
Also as Steve said, you may need to tighten the presser foot spring so the material can't slip. Your manual should tell you how to do both.
If the feed dogs are worn then you will need to replace.

I'm sure most of us would be interested ...I know I am

That 1/8" should work fine....I hadn't seen it in the 1/8" before Thanks Peter