I still dial ET's number and talk to Tracy. But she ask if they didn't have ET product in stock if it ok to send EZ on or Robbins since thats the tops Miami sells.

I'm so busy I turn away more than I do. I'm also planning on jumping ship in the next year or so. I got a new side line going on and I love it. Wishing I lived in California but I can afford to travel once this takes off. Just need to do a bit of building and selling to get me to the Cali travel point. Also the building will make me sustainable. Commercial Beekeeping. Always loved woodworking and there's plenty of the to do. :)

How I deal with pricing. It sound greedy but I'm far from that. Get what you can because unless you've done a few its probably gonna take you longer than you think. Be up front with the customer if you haven't done one and tell them your hourly rate you go by and that you have no idea how long it would take. Then be honest with your pricing and time. It's usually a guesstimate not an estimate. Also if you want happy return customers dont go over 20% more than you guessed. Plus tell them there maybe unforseen issues. And Always do your best work on every job. Even if you're gonna lose money. For every happy customer you'll get 10 more jobs. A 5 star rating on Google will pay the bills and the some.

Pull that side cover off and look there.

I use GAT for my foreign tops. German Auto Tops.

I bought a set of piping feet off ebay that were made in China and they never debured the needle hole. Its harded steel now so it take a diamond tip dremal to debur it then you have to follow up with 600 to smooth that out so if you can find them made from somewhere else. Pay the extra money.

I agree with Justin, the cover isnt tight enough to crush the foam in the seam. And alway flip the seam so it lays flat.

Previous owner of Ez On bought it.

Lus that is labor only.

Corvette central.

I do. And i charge more for foreign cars than I do domestic.

I dont recommend using masking tape or any other tape. The glue on the tape had a chemical reaction the the clear plastic window leaving the texture of the glue embedded in the window. Electron doesn't recommend using tape either.

I used 3m contractor grade masking tape and it left tape marks behind. Tried mineral spirits and its not coming off.

I have my own shop I rent and the layout sucks. The door is on the end or the smaller side of the building. If it was on the longer side I could get more cars in it easier.

Cechaflo on YouTube just did a video on this. Check it out. He does awesome work but sews the hard way in my opinion. I put the band face up and the curve on top face down. He wraps the band from the top which means you have to turn two different pieces at the same time to sew around a corner. But his stuf looks awesome.

Im definitely giving saran wrap a try. Thanks a bunch for the tips.

I always buy 1/8 headliner when doing sunroof and headliner. Most boards are pretty smooth and come with 1/8 now. 1/ 8 isn't any harder to work with than the thicker foam back IMO. Wait until you get a vw or bmw guy that wants suede headliner lol. Did a few of those. Suede headliner has No stretch and those boards have contours that require headliner to have stretch to it. And for anyone who hasn't had a land rover or range rover, make sure to measure the width at the time of your estimate. Some of those require 65 in material. And irs sometimes hard to get the color match.

On the other hand, What Not to use. Don't use 409. It cleans it off easy But it also leaves a film that keeps the new glue from adhering to the surface.

Cody it feels like it could be. Also feels coated.

I probably going to have to use your idea to make my piping tins. Can't find anyone that has a 3in pair. Ordered a pair from J&L Fabrics and they sent me 4". Called C S Osborne and they don't have any and their maker went out of business.

If the bun doesn't have a protective fabric glued to keep the springs from cutting it up in 5 year as most new cars seat today are made, and im pretty sure Brians don't either. Lol I glue no-sag burlap to the bottom and cut away the section where the listing goes and replace the anchor wire on the seat springs then hogring the bun down to that in a couple places then it's not so hard to find the anchor wire with the seat listing hogrings. Just ribbing you Brian. I've bought a few covers from the seat shop and buns. And recommended my customers to your website to save them money on leather seat covers. You guys do great work at a great price. Thank you.

Thanks for the replys. John no offense or disrespect I love your channel. You do great work on it. And I agree there are many ways and techniques. I just think the bottom should be taunt, especially a one piece bench seat cover. I like tight fitting cover. I don't see where the Muslim would shrink. It may look like it did but if you pull it tight from side to side, you should get the length you had when you start. That being said for stuffing pleates. I do allow for shrinkage on top stitch pleating when doing todays style with sew foam. I allow 1/8"per pleate.

Posted this on another post. My first one was a Craftsman 2 gallon paint pot. I purchased the airline and fluid tube from our upholstery supplier. Purchased a second gauge and regulator for out going pressure regulation. And I bought the gun from Big Lots. That setup was 10 times better than the binks i have now. I once left glue in it for 8 months and it was still fine. It doesn't need to be connected to air line nor do i stir it. If it sit for a week or so stirring would be a good idea but i don't. It should keep as long as the seal on the lid is seated good.

My first one was a Craftsman 2 gallon paint pot. I purchased the airline and fluid tube from our upholstery supplier. Purchased a second gauge and regulator for out going pressure regulation. And I bought the gun from Big Lots. That setup was 10 times better than the binks i have now. Js

I believe the size is 5/32"