The waterproof panel boards perform better in dryer climates. There is still the fact that sewing thru them weakens them a bit. I always us abs and in situations like you describe I use chip board or sunvisor board and cut it to shape. Cover this with the foam and material, leaving a lil exess around the edges. Sew it up and then glue on top of the abs. Finish by wrapping the excess material over the edges of the abs. This still gives ya the deep, defined lines of sewing thru the panel that ya may lose by just sewing thru the material and foam and then gluing that to the abs.

It might be overkill but I have usually used coarse sandpaper to rough up the side that will be glued to give it better bite

I wanna second Fred's gesture. Thank you fellas!

I assume you're talking about abs, as in door panels? If so I use 1/8 for most panels and usually staples just fine. Once in awhile I'll get a piece that seems to be a lil harder than normal and it will reject staples. When this happens I simply lightly run the heat gun over it for a bit to soften it up. IT DOESNT TAKE MUCH! As for 1/4, I don't really use 1/4 abs much but when I have, same thing applies

Just a side note about the abs cracking. I've had a batch do this too and found that just a little warming up with the heat gun changes that. Don't have to melt it, just warm it up.

Agree with Chris. 808s for almost every door panel

Thanks for everyone's responses. Yes I did put in new cables. After speaking with Tracey, they agreed the top wasn't right and theyre are sending a new one.

My pattern table is topped with 1/2" drywall and a layer of 1/4" foam on top of that, then topped with vinyl. When I lay patterns out I us 3/8 staples through the selvage. Works great. But when I don't have selvage to I have a couple maul heads and magnets of various sizes

Yes I was informed by Tracey (I believe one of the last electron employees) that everything had been sold in December, and they're not planning on using the electron patterns.

Thanks Fred. You've been a huge help with this project

I've done a couple and ended up having to strip em again at the end of season cause the owners complained about how hot they get. I've seen some factory ones where the gel was molded into the bottom of the cushion. Not sure if that makes much difference or not

I use a foot with a guide on it like these... https://www.ebay.com/itm/320954677997?hash=item4aba63baed:g:5ywAAOSwA4dWHyf5&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAAsFsnASjcIIGYVkAbeQBh8FvrSe24hRhw6Yzkcj4TFLKu021pMR5wUpeUr%2Fz%2B5XN0VaSHW5VqFN%2Bb3Vxwowyk2mXHVYkp7OjImRloBN%2FjczaNi6zYSkSWF8y6weXGoR5dSB8GPxuTRYhWi8XTUmdTspYNX3NUYuYLkT4LqKpXJiuoU7an7cdO5fWdq%2F9GIxK2e1HDj7EZSDWzR%2Bd%2FPC5ixBqIQTrYUEvyRbjf6S%2BqiAwE%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR4aNkJX4YA

I agree with Kevin. I have nothing but poly just for that reason, and I don't even do a lot of boat work. But it'd be my luck that this would happen. And yeah alot depends on what they're using to clean with but also just how much it sits in the sun uncovered. I have a local shop that I'm friends with and one of his customers came to me asking me to restitch all of the seams that this other shop did a few yrs before cause every year since it had been done a couple cushions needed restitched and the customer felt the other shop was incompetent. After talking with the other shop owner, he confirmed that he had never used poly in all of his years(over 30 yrs) and had never had this issue. Turns out the customer is constantly cleaning the cushions trying to erase the orange stains from his spray on tan and the boat is ALWAYS in the sun at the dock uncovered. So probably a combination of not poly thread, constant sun and excessive harsh cleaners. But I still use the poly to try to avoid such possible situations.

Which way ya do it depends on the contours of the bun. This one doesn't have alot of contour to the top except the bump in the back so this could easily be accomplished by layering thinner pieces on top of a slab unless there's alot if contour on the bottom to fit in the pan. And even then it may be best to just layer pieces. It really depends on the situation. Now if you're giving it a big roll in the front for lat support and beefy side bolsters then yes 4" profile cuts are good

It's called Counterpane, it's in the newer Ship2Shore swatch book.

National fabric has a line that has diamond embossed vinyl but it doesn't have a poly backer like the pleats. I'll look it up tomorrow at the shop if someone doesn't answer it before then

No suppliers will still use them for ordering. Question is tho 'is someone going to carry the torch for upcoming years?' Several suppliers have online databases but it's hard to tell the difference between black, ebony and charcoal when it's on your phone. Plus you can't tell texture on a screen either.

Following. I too have often times struggled with this same thing.

Use a piece of 5 mm luan. Hold it in place before the headliner goes in and carefully trace it, cut it and sand a slight bevel in the side that goes against the car. Drill several holes to screw it into place and test fit. When you are ready to install the headliner give your beveled edge a good coat of hhr glue and screw it into place (after it has dried enough to not stick to the windlace). Then give your headliner a light coat of glue when you're ready to tuck the headliner. It gives a much cleaner edge than plygrip. I do this for all of my headliners unless the retainers are in excellent shape.

Thanks guys

Thanks guys. Fred I've seen the style you mentioned. Ive dealt with those before, however on this the frame is way too far in from the outside of the car. It would make the top look funky if that were the case. This is something that I believe is specific to the 33 4 n 5 cabriolet. Eric thats what im looking for. So I understand it that the flap will sew to the very edge of the top before it is bound? And the one in ur pic looks as tho it's reinforced with something stiff, panel board or something? Or is it just laying really flat?

I use 3/16 on almost all seat seams (most modern cars use this), 1/4 for carpet binding, 1/8 for matching seams in older cars (about 50 yrs or so and older). I also have an 1/8 on the machine that I use solely for perimeter stitching piecesbto sew foam

Home depot had a pair of husky gravity feed paint guns on clearance for $20. I've had em foe about 5 yrs now. I used to go thru those cheap siphon guns about once a year.

I'd call rostrum. They might be willing to seek some yardage or have access to it if they don't actually sew em up. Can't hurt to try