I find the headliner works out best when both are removed. OK results with just pulling the rear glass and tucking under front windshield rubber. When removing , usually I cut the rubber and replace it. This way you can lift out the glass easily.

That's color key molding. You first rivet on an aluminum track then press on the plastic trim. I used a ton of that back in the 80's with aftermarket vinyl roof installs. It's used now with many hot rod vinyl roof installations.

Sure Garrett, I'd be happy to help. I generally use template pattern plastic. Lightly glue in place, mark the sewing seam with a china marker, make guide marks to align the insert / bolster with the facing. Allow 3/8" for sewing when transferring onto material . If you can explain where you are running into problems , I can address that issue.

Hey Dale , That's a real clean ,neat look. Great job!

I agree with you Fred. Our craft is not nuts and bolts. It is unique in the sense that we are able to take raw materials and create a finished product. That being said we still have to base a price, unless you can offer time and materials. If not figure book time on a convertible approx 8 to 12 hours not including pads and unknown problems. I would be comfortable telling the customer on this landau top 20 to 25 hours.

If this project doesn't require original underlayment you can get great results with landau padding. Start with a herculite base stretched and stapled in place. Staple bow lining on to the herculite ( this provides a great gluing base) Pre sand landau pad and glue onto bow lining. Sand the padding to even out and glue the topping on. If you want a softer original style feel use 1/8 " landau sanded with 1/8" headliner padding over it, then install the topping material. I've used this method for years on drivers to show vehicles with excellent results.

My guy just found the starting of a wasps nest in the front rest of a 55 Chevy.

31 Ford streetrod

Now that's funny! Thanks for sharing.

That's great to hear!

I agree with you Fred, " Do not give up " . I find the old saying , walk away and come back to it later, does actually work. You may want to try cutting the vinyl on the bias ( the same as bias binding) This will allow the the stretch of the vinyl to mold itself around the panel. Steam helps also. Apply the glue and let it set up ,steam the vinyl as you stretch around , hit it again with a light coat of glue and attach. This is what is so unique to our industry that there are various methods to complete a project.

I usually leave the original intact as a base. Make a pattern with 16g clear plastic or template plastic. Clean the dash with acry-solv , sand well and acry-solv wash again. If the dash has cracks fill with two part epoxy and pad with a thin layer of sanded landau foam.

That is cool. How long does that take to do?

I've used bow lining. It's lightweight and strong. Cut it on the bias for a proper stretch.

Hi Mike, I make the flap pattern out of 30 gauge clear plastic and use that as a reinforcement. Cover it with top material, add blind snaps and bind. The plastic is only used on the flat flap, pinch and sew the top material to the flap to make a really square, solid corner. I like to have the snaps on either end so to keep the flap straight. Snaps in the center may pull the flap too far inward thereby making it look distorted. Sew the finished flap to the top edge and bind. Any questions feel free to contact me.

Usually tops frames that did not have a rubber seal against the top side of the door glass would use a flap. It would stop the wind and rain (somewhat!) from entering the passenger
compartment. The flap is premade with blind snaps and sewn to the perimeter of the reinforced top and bound. The pics show the inside of a fabricated flap with snaps on the workbench and completed on the finished top.

I agree with you Fred. I questioned my attorney regarding signed disclaimers and airbags. His advise was not to worry about the person who signed, worry about his wife ,girlfriend, mother ,father etc. They will be the ones to file claim against you. If the customer removes and reinstalls the steering wheel that may take the liability off of you. However it may be best to pass, there will be other projects to showcase your skills.

Jeep Wrangler custom allante vinyl.

Hi Mike , That's a great move to persevere your dad's legacy. I keep my dad's early singer in our front display window.

Wow, That's crazy! I had a customers car come in with the bucket seats lag bolted to the floor.

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Hi William, On various materials I find that gluing 1/8" padding to the facing(boxing) gives the material more body and helps to fill out those corners. Regarding the knee lift ( my dad's trick) be careful not to raise too much or the tensioner on the sewing machine will open and effect the stitch. He used to pull the small pin out behind the tensioner , which would eliminate any potential stitch problem. You can easily still be able to release the tension by putting your finger behind the tensioner plate next to machine. Just thought I'd share.

Check that the piping feet are correct size. Try sewing piping and facing to the insert in one shot and/or add 1/8 " pad to the facing then sew together. Raise knee lift slightly (not too much) as you go around corner to bring in tighter.

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