Thank you, I will check them out !

I use a ton of sanding blocks, 40-80 grit paper. Roloc sanding discs, and a trim router. Router bits cut foam like a knife through hot butter. I have roundover bits to 2” radius

I like to channel the foam with a trim router and a 1/2” wide cutting bit, then use Velcro like many modern seats

When doing white or very light colors that need stitching, like pleats, Sew the line straight using a different reference mark on the sewing machine feet. That way you are not sewing directly over the line and clean up is easier. I knick the top of my presser feet with a Dremel cutoff wheel. Makes a very small “aiming point” if you will, and never runs off. The black feet have a shiny spot at the cutout and the silver feet can be marked with a dab of color. Just don’t forget to pattern accordingly if you plan to sew off of center for pleats

That is awesome Steve Ingram, well done sir!!

“Stacked” pvc armrest before upholstery


Aluminum and MDF armrest, front and rear

Thank you, that was my guess for the insert. The bolster material had me stumped as well, looks like pollock ebony maybe? But my book showed that for a Malibu? Thanks again, Jeremy

I live in an area that has a strong agriculture influence. While I mostly do one-off custom work, tractors, forklifts, quads etc have provided an abundance of “quick cash”. The local farmers are the ones that own the hot rods, so I have to keep them happy. During harvest seasons I often offer after hours repairs, meaning they can drop off at dark and pickup on the way back to the fields or orchards in the morning. It is a little inconvenient for me, but no down time for the equipment and happy workers make the farmers happy. The local ranchers become brand ambassadors at the coffee shops, they like to brag to each other about their equipment, and now their colleague’s are calling wanting the same. You can do well!! Jeremy

Way cool!

I only do custom work so my customers are different than a repair facility. My problem with websites/Facebook is the keyboard warrior who wants you to drop everything for an immediate quote, then provide bad online reviews when they find out they DO NOT have a clue how much time it takes to HAND MAKE every panel for a car, where panels never existed, and oh yea, I don't work for free. My customers are all referred by a past customer in one way or another. I am greatful that I have more work than I can do, and great customers that still want unique and different. They also want to SEE my shop with their own eyes, they want to talk to me in person , they want to know that I will treat their car with the utmost respect and care. Some of my customers are completing a life long journey to get that custom or classic car done after many years/decades of sacrifice, no website will give the comfort a working mans handshake will. No image on the web will replace looking into the eyes of your craftsman, knowing they share your passion. All of that being said, I do have instagram, and try to remember to use it. I love connecting with like minded professionals and seeing what everyone else is up to, and who knows....maybe someday I will gather a customer from it, if not, it's still fun as time allows.

Yup, the 190 needle is so long it gets weak and starts to deflect towards the shuttle/hook. I always know it's time to change the needle because it will show up when I backstitch. The machine will sew over many many layers and the stitch length is very consistent. I may change mine to the 135 needle system after I use up all of my 190 needles. I like the idea of that 30" long arm machine Mal Mayer mentioned, I will be adding a long arm next year and I will make sure to take a closer look at that machine

I have a juki 1508nh. I love it, I regularly sew 207/270 thread without a problem. The biggest difference I noticed with the feeding mechanism is that the stitch length is really consistent around turns. I purchased mine form a well known Los Angeles sewing machine dealer, and the transaction was as easy as it gets. If I had one complaint, it would be the needle size. The machine uses a 190 series needle which is longer that's than the typical 135 series needles. I have noticed that you can get some deflection in the needle when sewing with multiple thick layers or through platic or wood. Not a huge problem, just seems I change needles more often than before. The machine can be adjusted to use the 135x17 needles pretty easy, but I haven't felt it was needed. Hope it helps!