Hey guys, have a convertible question. I install tops occasionally, generally would rather be working on seats or other stuff. I have read all the convertible literature I can in the past, and only have my own experience to compare it to. Anyway, when installing rear curtains, generally clear plastic but applies to glass also, I spend a lot of time and effort to get the window to look nice, but often when the top gets installed the rear bow position changes slightly with the change in tension from the top, making the rear curtain a little loose. Generally is the something that will work itself out in the summer heat, or should it be addressed? With the plastic windows, it’s always been kind of a mystery to me as to how fussy you need to get versus what will dissipate on its own. Obviously big wrinkles need to be addressed, how about small, minor ripples? Looking forward to your thoughts, thank you.
I feel you brother. That is way more common I find with plastic than glass.Older Mustangs drive me nuts so I try to convince my customer to use glass. One trick a guy showed me was,assuming the window is installed correctly. When you are installing the top and every thing looks mint except the top has now created a little looseness in the window.. Now the wireon has not been installed at this point. Draw a line on the front edge of the wireon bow where the top is laying. Open the latches and pull the rear bow up until the line you drew is in the center of the bow. Staple across. Lock latches.This will pull the whole rear window curtain up and get that little pucker out. Always remember though we are our worst critics. I worry about things that all the time that a customer never mentions. But wrinkles in tops bug me so I try to do it right.
Thanks Robert, much appreciated. It’s reassuring to know I’m not the only one who wrestles with stuff like that. I have one here today that I am just about to that point. I’ll carefully try to readjust at rear bow as you suggested, if I get about an 1/8 or 3/16 out of it, I think it will be spot on. I can also adjust a little at the header as well. I have learned to add 1/2” to the bow height when putting on pads, as the extra 1/2” will disappear through the process. Thanks again
Anyone have thoughts on using heat on the plastic windows? I have this one at the shop that is just about perfect but has a slight ripple near the right edge. Outside in the sun you can’t see it, only when it’s inside. I think a little time in the hot sun will take care of it. In the past I’ve used both heat gun and steam on them, always seems like a crap shoot, sometimes you get the result you want, sometimes it doesn’t do what you thought it should. Just looking for experience on what seems to consistently work, thanks
As you say, We often are our worst critics. We/I have been installing tops since 1972 and a top never leaves the shop with a wrinkle in it. I am appalled watching Mecum or Barrett Jackson and see cars going across the block with wrinkled tops.SMH
Heat is always your friend working with plastic rear Windows, but even heat is a must. We often use a body shop type infared curing light to get even heat across the entire window section, Thus getting an even pull to the bow.