Three Rivers Supply has it Miami carries it but out of stock.
1" Black seat channel hook
Google search of description listed several others

How about one of these

I believe a cnc quilting machine would be capable of that style stitching for the red with out the double stitching Keith mentioned check out ABM International

Search needle punch carpet at Miami Corp also can be found as Superflex which I believe is a backing less carpet used for speaker boxes and other things like those trunk deck boards

Peter,
I don’t know how if you can repost a thread but if you enter foam shaping in the forum search bar it brings up the post where Eric shows cutting a square from edge of foam and gluing the edges together
I believe that’s what your looking fore

Search "foam shaping" Eric Gordon's post may be what you were thinking of

That does look better. May still need to play with the tension. I place reference marks on my tension knobs and right down how much I turn them in or out so I can turn back to where it looks good if I change it too much. Keeping good sharp needles in machine is important as well. I have found the thicker the yarn the larger the stitch length needs to be. I have used both the polyester and cotton. I really do not use that serger much any more as it doesn't do inside corners or circles that easy.

I get my yarn from carpet vendor (higher end wool for aircraft) NC and Burke Tool in Florida NC sponsors this forum plus they are great folks to deal with so I support them with tread and yarn when they have what I need.

That would have worked to get this job done but as I stated I have found tensions to change with rolls of yarn. I typically have love hate relationship with my sergers. Currently have both the small NC which is the same as yours and 2 81200 larger sergers ( I use one for back up) once set up they all run great

The machine is most likely not out of wack. I do a lot of carpets and have found every time a roll of yarn is changed tensions need adjustment. Also after doing a lot of practice it becomes obvious what needs adjusted. In my opinion sergers do not work like sewing machines,adjustment and practice is needed. Chances are the large spool of yarn he used was a rounder yarn NC yarn is slightly flatter which call for adjustment I currently use both types of yarn depends on who has best color match. I have also found different spoils of yarn feed differently which also can cause issues as well as what type of yarn it is wool, nylon or polyester

Google Lincoln logo embroidery, Etsy has Lincoln logo it along with some other sites. It's a download and has formats for most machines.

John,
You should be good with what you got.
Most of the older aircraft used what appears to be a lot like the Dap Weldwood, they were very messy and a lot of seats have it sprayed all over the paint (like the ones I'm doing now). Later models are using a different product more of a clear type glue and it starts to give way after about 5 or 6 years.
If you get into any of the larger aircraft I recommend using glue that is made to meet the appropriate regulations, Bostick makes some, very expensive.
Thread is also never much of an issue, polyester threads are always a good choice.
Usually burn certs for fabric, leather and foam are what mechanics look for (if they even do) when doing an inspection on an airplane for the first time.

Try Calsak plastics they have a location in minneapolis which may be close to you I’ve purchased it from them in the past

What I typically do, which is tedious and time consuming is after pieces are sewn together I go back and cut the foam away from the seam allowance. That makes it so French Seam is seen through only one side of foam allowing seam to lay flatter. I also stick with the same thickness of scrim back foam on both sides of seam if I were to French seam

I have some white/cream colored fabric that I have used for curtains in the past. Not a yard wide but strips which should cover a Bonanza window. Should have burn certs as well.

Both of my 2 needle machines are set at 3/8" That matches most of the OEM car seats that I measured prior to setting up machines. That appears to work for me with either 3/8 or 1/2 seam allowance.

2 cents worth,
Mal Maher at NC is a wealth of knowledge.
I Have both a flat bed 3/8" gauge and a post 3/8" gauge.
As Jens said a post machine has a learning curve and since I seem to have a lot of tight radius work it's my go to machine. The flat bed I use mostly for flat work only such as top stitch design on side panels I do. The other thing to keep in mind is the 2 spools of thread though I have used wound bobbins as top thread when I have odd small jobs and don't want to purchase another spool of thread.

I have a 5 foot piece of Adams, has dark backing, newer samples have light color backing, but it is Adams CD-204. It is older stock and as they say color may vary by dye lot.

Check trivantage.com they have them listed on web site

BTW my regulator on pot is for gun pressure I use the regulator on my air system in shop to limit air to pot so basically 2 regulators as I use my shop regulator for painting as well

My setup I've used for years is a 2.5 gallon pressure pot
Has one gauge with pressure regulator and safety valve on pot
Use nylon tubing for fluid rubber line okay for air
Binks 2001SS gun with 1.8 needle. You can always turn fluid down to regulate spray
As for liners, I usually use a plastic jug for glue, milk jug, bleach bottle etc, always seem to have one around so no extra cost incurred
Very rarely clean completely mostly just the air cap needs cleaned
Whenever I add glue I check for solids in bottom of jug and if loaded up time for a new jug
Also only use Weldwood glue

Even if aircraft stays in another country, if it retains its "N" registration is is still registered in the USA and FAA rules apply. I have several customers with which this is the case.

Not sure of how much you wish to spend but this one works great and comes complete and ready to use. https://demandproducts.com/OWA/Product/Details/HKTFC/001/-/fabric-cutter-hot-knife-w-case-r-blade-guide-110-volt-130-watts
If on more of a budget, I used a Weller soldering gun with a cutting tip and cut on top of a piece of glass so not to burn table top, it also worked pretty good

One thing to consider is nozzle size. I have seen the HF guns with various nozzle sizes. I routinely spray with an old Sharpe conventional spray gun I found at a yard sale. It was setup to spray primer using a 1.8 nozzle. I am able to spray with a good pattern as low as 60 psi. Never have an issue, never clean and use it at least every other day. I also have a pressure pot set up with a 2.0 nozzle by Binks years ago don't have issues with it either and don't use it nearly that much. Before I used the Sharpe I had purchased guns from Keyston Bros for around $35.00 they worked great had big nozzles and would still be using them today but they don't withstand dropping them that well. Was just at Home Depot and saw a gun with a 1.8 nozzle but have no experience with it. Not sure if this will help at all but just my 2 cents worth

As a side note. If a customer carries his seats or whatever to you to cover he/she picks material you suggest material with burn certification they chose whatever they want I would do the job. As I said before it is the owners responsibility to maintain the aircraft in an airworthy condition and no one elses I'm in a different tougher situation I have licenses to lose if I put it in. If I don't have the licenses I would put it in following my own advise and let them deal with it as the writer had to. I've been a mechanic for 30 years and been splitting my time Stitchin for 38 years. I'm still learning every day and have got a lot of help reading posts on this forum Hopefully one day I'll be as good as some of you all from what I've seen