SEM, 1-800-831-1122, RockHill SC. Also on the web.

Die sizes are 22, 30, 36, 40, 45, 50, 60, 80, and 48/65. You don't need all of them. I only have three and get along just fine. If the button is on a door panel, it's probably a #22. A #22 when covered in vinyl is approximately 1/2" or 1 1/2 cm. Depending on the length of the prong, you might have to drill a hole in the bench that the press sits on to accommodate the length of the prong, or you can cut the prong off before you cover the button. when you do that, you sacrifice the point on the end of the prong.

You will need a button press, dies, cutters, shells and backs. There are eight sizes of dies, and cutters, with shells and backs to go with them. For the backs, you have standard and short wire eye, prong, nail, and nylon hook.You can even get a square button. It's not cheep to get into the button making business.

@Cesar Chavez, you are welcome to come to my shop anytime. I have seen many of your videos and you are truly the master.

Anymore, my routine is with fabric or vinyl covers, remove the seat cover, take it to a Laundromat, wash on gentle cycle, air dry, (DO NOT PUT IN DRYER), ( you can't wash a leather cover) resew cover, glue a thin plastic, like cushion ease or trash can liner on infected area of seat foam, so acid can't wick back up into seat cover, and reinstall seat cover. Like I said, the cars belong to dealers, so I won't see them again. I wish I knew if this is the answer. I feel I have done everything I can do. I don't know what else there is to do. Thanks for the feedback, at least I know I'm not the only one with this problem.

I fully agree.

I use a siphon gun as well. Did you know if you put a thin coating of white grease, or Vaseline on the tip, the adhesive build up will wipe rite off? The grease needs to be reapplied after wiping off. A real time saver.

The majority of OEM seat covers on all vehicles, are manufactured in Mexico. There are some exceptions. It is a little white label sewn to the inside of the rear of the seat cover. It has the time, date, shift, plant it was manufactured in, color code, and MADE IN MEXICO. This is nothing new, they have been doing this for decades. I do remember seeing the labels in the seventy's, when they were made in Detroit. There are very few parts on a car today, that are manufactured in the USA. We have assembly plants in this country. Not long ago, I was talking to a used car dealer, who needed a set of OEM wheels for a late model Cadillac. He ordered them through the Cadillac dealership. When he received them, they were stamped MADE IN CHINA. When he questioned the dealership, they said that's where Cadillac wheels are manufactured. WOW. I only sew my label on a cover that I have repaired.

I mainly do seat repair these days. I've never felt the need to literally brand my work, but I do feel it is important leave my mark. I used to sign and date the foam on the back of all inserts, after the work was done, for prosperity and to let anyone who opened up the seat again, I was there. What I finally ended up doing was, I got some light weight, white awning or boat cover material, 8 oz. or less, cut it into 1 1/2 x 2 1/2 inch rectangles, made a rubber stamp with my name, address and phone number, (the same rubber stamp I stamp my checks with) and stamped the fabric, and there's still enough room to sign and date. Then sew into back of seat cover, next to the made in Mexico label. It looks cool, and for the twenty dollar investment you have enough labels to last a lifetime.

First let me say, Pyramid Trim is a fine supplier. Nice people, good prices, very knowledgeable, and fast service. They are one of my favorite suppliers. I have no complaints with them. With that being said, I am not talking about end of roll marks. I am just saying that the surface area on the softer vinyls being manufactured today is so soft, that it takes very little for it to imprint permanently. I won't even order a vinyl on a Friday, knowing that it's going to be rolled up till Monday. And yes Jeff is correct, a buffer zone between the end of the material and the tube would help, because THAT is what causes the marks.

Will you sell individual books?

Once again, if I am reading this rite, it sounds like we want to start an association, which really isn't a bad idea. But if I had to guess, I would think the majority would not want to be bound financially to something in terms of dues or pooling money. Once you throw in the money factor people get cold feet. We can have all that rite here for free, we are just not organized. Don't get me wrong, I personally would love to belong to an upholstery organization again. By the way, you have a very nice looking shop.

The custom things will come in time, be careful what you wish for.

Sounds to me like it is the effect they got when they bunch the material up around seams, often seen in caskets, and low riders. It's done with elastic.

A drum riser I mad for a local rock star.

It's an epoxy broadcast floor . Very sturdy .seat tracks will gouge it if the seat is heavy enough and you slide them. I don't have a floor jack, but if I did I would just put a piece of cardboard under it while jacking it up. I always set seats on cardboard,when they are on the floor. I get many complements on the floor. I like to keep the shop clean, because it seems to make people more comfortable especially woman.

In the 1989 Detroit book 8442 is listed as camaro. If you do have two different colors, and It's not fading or the light, there is a lighter gray of the same pattern #8443, but it looks like it has a blue cast to it.

1930 Ford Model A trunk