I find a few of those a year too. Don’t forget the mummified mice and their droppings

There are actually quite a few near me. My boss did the top on one over 10 years ago. And every year I see an immaculate one tooling around Port Washington at my parents boa slip. I’ve also seen a row of them in a field waiting to be restored when I was a kid off some farm road. Call up electron tops, the catalog photo is of one.

You can buy “roll ends” of the vinyl top material. It’s usually discounted as it’s flawed and not normal sized.

Is there some controversy or something?

On the late 90’s Chevys I just pull it off and add a layer of scrim foam to cover up the damage

I would read up Here lots of professional advice

Make sure you use stainless steel staples. Just be upfront with the guy and say that you cannot guarantee it for that long.

Regular foam that you normally use same with the sew foam. I also use Landeu top and trim for glue. They also have the pre pleated vinyl that is marine grade. I have used that before and holds up good. A boat interior lasting 10 years and he wants if fixed, I’d tell him to piss up a rope. I haven’t seen a boat interior last more than 10-12 years. I have also seen a 2 year old boat that looks like it has 10 years of use. It really depends on how the customer takes care of it, and weather they use a boat cover,l at a pier, or store it indoors between uses.

Small vintage race car seat done in some tweed.

Just get a whole new tension bracket Ebay
The off brands work ok, but I like the name brand tension disks as they are made of a higher quality steel. The off brand seem to get grooves cut into them from the thread faster.

They rub off a little from handling, but you can still see the line. It fades even more after the seam. I don’t use it with white thread as it colors the thread a little bit unless you use white chalk.

I use shop air to blow the chalk off

I use a Dritz chalk wheel. I use contractor chalk in it. I like blue and red.Amazon link

A powe probe isn’t a multi meter. The version 4 does have a multimeter built in though it seems. I have an old Klein multi meter that I like.

Synergy performer from Miami @Naseem Muaddi took around 13 hours

67 Chevy

I’ve seen that before I replaced it with hydem. But the original closest thing I’ve seen is PLASTIC INSERT WIRE-ON. You usually see that on older mustang rear bow trim or wire-on.

My kid is too young for one, but when he’s old enough he will get a tricked out one with better motors, bigger batter pack, and of course a full interior.

I use either screws or epoxy for the door panels. The high temp glue doesn’t work that well for that. But it does for the sun visors. Although I did have a picky customer that decided to take it apart and I had to use epoxy. I use 3M 04247 it takes a special applicator and tips. You have to be incredibly fast as the set up time is like 30 seconds, then you have to switch tips.

@Terry Birkenbach those turned out good. I plan on doing just a simple add on pod for mine, just don’t have the new speakers yet.

No I believe he is talking about these not the medallions. I’m interested in the process too. I’d like to see a cutaway diagram of them to see how it prevents dirt getting between the grommet and the seat.

You can use the wayback machine

No problem, that's what this great board is for.

I don't know, we have a glass guy come out and do it. That way if it leaks it's warrantied by them.

We have the rear window pulled on the jaguars, VW Jetta, and the new Ford fusion or focus. It adds to the cost but we don't have any issues with bending the headliner getting it in and out.