You may also want to check Snyders Antique Auto Parts. If they don't have the spring pattern they can custom build or use an available spring pattern and retro fit it to the base frame

Check out Maimin cutters. I bought a factory rebuilt model Sabre 2000. Excellent smooth cutter for foam or stacked vinyl. No wobble or vibration. I have an older model Maimin that I remember being here when I was a kid. My dad said it was WWII surplus. It still works!

Thanks! I'll look into these suggestions

Probably best to pre drill the holes, then glue cover down. I'd use 1/8" large flange.

www.hydroe.com sells manuals that may help. I was brought up on the scissor top. In and of the shop when I was a kid. Any questions I'd be happy to assist.

You're welcome Kurt. 1/8 " foam backed headliner works best. After gluing in place use silicone spray sparingly on the edges to help tucking under. Try using two tucking tools side by side . One to slightly push panel downward while the other tucks the material under.

I agree. I have a post bed Consew 389RB-1. The extra large U style bobbins never seem to run out! Installed a servo which makes it that much better.

Thanks Nadeem . All the best to you and all the folks throughout our industry.

It's best to peel off old material leaving the board intact on targa. Clean the foam with a soft bristled brush. Glue new material in place and tuck all around edges.

I have been using the Hoffman/New Yorker. Great steamer with no problems. Added a 17' stainless braided hose with a high heat hose cover ( from industrial supply) The hose doesn't break and the added length helps to use for steaming convertible installations.

I wouldn't be too concerned with side tension cables on this model. I like to make the pads (not universal) to fit close to the top edge of the side rail. Keep the pads thinner so this will allow the top to fit tight to the side rail. After installing the rear curtain , start installing the top by gluing the 1/4 flap to the 1/4 rail. I find this holds the roof in a spot where it needs to be. Then it allows you to pull the top rearward toward the rear bow (always keeping an eye on your center and side seam mark on rear bow) and belt line.

This era mopar generally was attached by gluing directly to the outside of the body ,then a thin metal lock down trim was screwed over it. The belt molding trim was installed with button studs covering the lock down trim. I'm currently installing a 58 Plymouth with a similar attachment.

I find template patterning material works best. It's available on 6 ft x 100 yard rolls. Its somewhat clear but doesn't stretch or distort . Use a light mist adhesive to hold. I draw guide lines and designs on it with a china marker . The pattern can be saved for future projects.

Hi Nadeem, Wow ! Thanks so much! It's much appreciated! I'll be checking out KC Tool regarding the hog ring and diagonal cutters. Great job with the forum. Again, Thanks you

I've steamed the boards to remove and reinstall them. You can steam the crease after the headliner install ,it usually allows the board to conform to its original shape. Or partially glue headliner to the board out of car reinstall board and complete the headliner to the board in the car.

Lacquer thinner works and didn't damage the vinyl. ( chalk, seabrook) It cleaned a black china marker where acrysolv or spray 9 didn't.