We use the heat pens with vinyl and leather. They work well for us but when you go over them with the heat gun the colour disappears but you can see where the pen mark was in the right light. We use industrial hand cleaning wipes from B&Q, go over them once and the marks are completely gone. I find they’re easier to remove in some applications than the wax pencils

Thanks for the replies. I brought that as an ebook to get a better idea on headliners but couldn’t find what I was after. I also watched the Meca guys on YouTube and they allowed an inch taper but it appeared to be a case of let’s try it and see how it goes.

I do typically use pre-sewn camper headliners, the issue with this one is that it’s a converted commercial and he doesn’t want the windows removed so we’re having to plan it out. Are the Pop kite available to purchase online?

I did offer that to the customer. I was going to embroider onto black leather a panel in the corner, but he was determined it needs to be original

I had similar issues, I brought size 18 needles for sewing 40 thread and 22 needles for 20 thread and change them religiously. Also try shortening the stitch length and using a scrim backing if you can, I've found that really helps to reduce the size of the needle holes.

@John Woolfrey Thanks for the advice, I think you are spot on with your technique if you ask me. I try as much as I can to use the natural stretch of the leather to help it form around curves. As Gary said, with corrective grain hides we do have a luxury whereby you have a fairly free reign over where the hide is cut and utilising more of it.

You've raised some very good points on using the stretch of the sew foam to manipulate the leather too. I tend to buy foam that has a good 4 way stretch so that's not an issue, but I will a bit of research into using a 2 way stretch backing material to help the cover form better.

@Gareth Judd I am too, looks like it has a suede like finish underneath but could just be the picture. No one seems to stick it though!!

Brilliant thanks @Brian O'Donoghue I’ll get onto them.

Apologies for the delay, I've recently moved into my own unit after working in a garage for too long!

@Justin L Rash I've used the original foam from the seat, when I took it apart it appeared to be in good condition. I also used 6mm scrim on the front and sides to give the seat more cushioning and pad it out. I had some patterning vinyl I used to make the new panels and did reduce the edges by 1/2cm on both sides, not sure if this was my issue. I did also cut the seam allowance down but didn't add V cuts, think that was the nail in the coffin for these. I did steam it out which helped a bit but I've learnt a lot now they're finished.

@Manny Bencomo I picked them up on Facebook marketplace, I'm in the UK so there's always a Mini interior for sale somewhere.

@Wayne Munro yes I am, 1/4" piping foot and 3mm hard plastic piping.

@Gareth Judd I've never glued piping for the same reason I've never glued material to scrim. Namely that it restricts the movement when you go to fit the cover. I typically sew the piping before attaching it. Is there ever a reason to glue it or is it a big no no?

I am new to seats, the last trim shop I worked at I mainly did everything but seats. I've done a lot of seat repairs in the past so I like to think I'm fairly proficient but I know there is a huge mountain yet for me to climb!!

Thank you for all the responses! I have finished them, there are still flaws but overall I am happy with the way they turned out.